Badeo Benefit Part One

A friend asked me how i never get tired of coming back here in Kibungan. This Photo is just half of the Reason. The other half, and the bigger half, is the kind people living here who treated me, a complete stranger, like i was part of their Family.

SMS#1: “Ang lakas ng Ulan dito sir. Ang lakas ng hangin, parang may Bagyo” (The rain is too strong here. It’s like there is a Typhoon)

SMS#2: “Nagback out na yung pamangkin ko. Natakot sa hangin, hanap muna ako ng kapalit” (My niece decided not to come with me, I’ll have to find a replacement.)

SMS#3: “Sir di na talaga kami makababa sa Saddle. Ang lakas talaga ng ulan. Di kaya ng Cellophane” (Sir, we really cannot go down to Saddle. The rain is too strong. We cannot endure this with Cellophane alone)

Messages from Kuya Acdang flooded my inbox that Friday morning when we arrived in Baguio.

Let me give you contexts here. Cellophane is reffered to as a 2ft by 3.5ft plastic often used in public markets to transport vegetables. But residents here in Benguet use this oversize plastics like raincoat for carrying umbrellas going up and down the mountains when you need both of your hands free is just an inconvenience for most of these locals, and a cellophane is much more inexpensive.

Saddle on the other hand is a sitio in Brgy Sagpat in Kibungan, Benguet, about three hours away from Baguio by bus. My friends and I were headed to Brgy Badeo in Kibungan that rainy Friday morning, and Saddle was the main jump off point when you want to reach Badeo. From Saddle, one has to hike a total of 7 hours, just to reach these communities. On a normal visit here, I would not require the assistance of locals, but since we brought two boxes of school supplies, we need porters to carry them for that 7 hour hike. And that’s where Kuya Acdang comes into the equation.

So the news that it was raining heavily that Friday morning when we arrived, and that our porters weren’t able to go down to fetch us was not the start I was hoping for to greet us on our outreach program. And while we were having breakfast in Baguio, I was making contingency plans if the rain didn’t stop once we arrive in Kibungan. I can already feel all the exhaustion and stress leading up to this event. I spent the entire week going around Manila, and meeting my friends who wanted to donate for this cause. And since I am living in Bulacan and there was a hefty amount of school supplies I needed to purchase, it was convenient to just buy it on the day we were leaving for Benguet, have it boxed there in Divisoria, and then head straight to Victory Liner Cubao.

Struggle is Real at Divisoria

It was the easiest way, but it was far from being an easy task, and my fatigue was reaching new heights, that when I met with my two companions for this trip that night, it felt like a fever was on its way. And we still had to hike for 7 hours the next day, how I was able to endure this, only the gods of the mountains know.

Luckily, I have this uncanny ability to just shrug on every misfortune that sucker punches me in the guts whenever I travel. After all, the difference between a good day and a bad day is all in your attitude. And when I heard the news that it was raining heavily in Kibungan that Friday morning was almost funny to my sick sense of humor. It was also a good thing I was accompanied by my two new friends, and getting to know them was a great distraction to keep my mind off the things that might go wrong on this trip. I was lucky to even have a companion at all, for my friends who promised to go with me either backed out at the last minute or had other appointments or was mad at me for whatever reason. I’ve always had no problem travelling alone, but this is one time I was very glad I had company, and these two ladies got sick of my endless “Thank You” and “I owe you one” when we got back in Manila.

My two Companions. Cammile and Rochelle

Since I have never been in Benguet where it was purely bad luck that faced me, as with the Law of Averages, when we arrived in Kibungan, at our jumpoff in Saddle, it wasn’t raining anymore. It was almost sunny, and by noon time, we were already complaining how hot the weather is. We also just left our boxes in a store in Saddle and told the owner that two people from Badeo would fetch those the next day. This was not an unusual request for him. It’s a different community here in the provinces, everyone knows everyone, and you can leave your things in the care of others and it would always be there when you get back. I remember in victory liner in Cubao, where the guard won’t vouch that our boxes won’t be touched while we get dinner, while in Dangwa terminal in Baguio, the guards were more than willing to guard our things while we get some breakfast and even helped us in loading it in our bus.

Three hours in our trek, the sun was unrelentless in giving us her business, a stark contrast to the weather a few hours ago. So the last store along the way that had a cold bevereges lifted the spirits of my two friends who were hiking in Benguet for the first time. The last time I was here, a few weeks from this hike, we were forced to take shelter on the lone waiting shade along Mt. Nascong and Mt. Amanayao when rain poured on us. We were stuck there for almost an hour, but when we resumed trekking, countless waterfalls can be seen on both sides of the trails that makes one wonder what this trail looks like on a rainy season. This time around, the heat of the afternoon sun has erased even the traces of water flowing down the mountain side. It was unfortunate for my two companions, but the view was nevertheless breathtaking. That’s also the reason I never get tired of coming to these parts of Benguet. It’s always different. I saw how it is on a very sunny day, how the pastures are almost golden, and the pine trees are showing a shade of orange. There were times were the fog was so thick that I can only see a few meters in front of me. And rain is not such a bad thing here. It provides water not just for the rice fields but for the community consumption as well. And the appearances of countless waterfalls left and right is just a bonus to the already magnificent view.

Mt, Amanayao on a Rainy Day.
Photo by Ralph Mariano
taken on our hike last April

As we arrived in the first house in Badeo, which sits on the shoulders of Mt. Amanayao, our group is already exhausted, drained from the afternoon sun, and hungry for it was already 2pm. We opted to have lunch here. This dwelling is also a store, that serves as a rest stop for the locals as they traverse this trail, where cold water can be obtained on a scorching noon, or hot water to drink coffee when the weather is too cold. And these people are dependent on their coffee all day. One put it perfectly for me, drinking coffee is like a hobby for them. Got nothing to do? Drink coffee. Cold Weather? Drink Coffee. Just Ate? Drink Coffee. The first time I was here, I got so used to dirnking 8-10 cups of coffee a day that when I went back in Bulacan, my father scolded me for drinking all the coffee around the house in a matter of 2 days.

When we resumed trekking, you could already spot the Sitios of Tacadang, and its concealed rice terraces relatively unknown for tourists from manila. Sitio Tableo is just half an hour away. It is located on the mountain ridges, 1,456MASL, that extends until the Barangay Proper of Badeo. On the Northern side, across the Kibungan River, you can see the mountain ranges of Kibungan especially the Sitios in Tacadang. On the Southern side, across Amburayan River, you can see the Mountain Ranges of Kapangan, and the sitios of Brgy Pudong, Brgy Sagubo and Brgy Gadang, where several pockets of rice terraces and hundred meters high waterfalls can be seen from a far. We arrive in Tableo at around 330 in the afternoon, and the sitio is almost deserted. Most are in their farms, while the Brgy Treasurer who owns a store where I usually stay, was also in La Trinidad along with his entire family. So we just rest here for a while and opted to proceed to Badeo Proper which is 2 hours away.

Sitio Tableo.
Badeo Proper is still 2 hours away behind those mountains.
Photo by Ralph Mariano.

The trail from Tableo to Badeo Proper is relatively easy. It’s composed mostly of cemented path walk with gradual to nonexistent change in elevation. And aside from the cemented path walk and stairs getting slippery during the rainy season, this is the easiest part of the entire trek. At around 430 in the afternoon, it started raining and we had to seek refuge at the last waiting shed before Badeo Proper. This waiting shed is also the best view deck to witness the beauty of Barangay Badeo. The community sits on top of a mountain, adjacent to those of Baranggay Tacadang bisected only by the Kibungan River. Rice terraces lies through the length of the community and a fear for one’s life would prevent you from looking down the edges of the terraces. That’s how vertical and steep the fall would be if you were dumb to walk on and slip in the edge. It’s an unbelievable sight and a remarkable feet of Igorot engineering that begs the question on why their ancestor decided to live on such a perilous part of the mountains.

Badeo Rice Terraces

We finally arrived at the community at 530 in the afternoon. It took us a total of 8hours to reach the barangay. Exhausted and hungry from the trek, Kuya Johnny and his Mother greeted us like were visiting family members and served us their native coffee while the neighboring children began flocking in when the news that we arrived spread like wild fire in the entire community. Chelle and Camille tried to talk to the children which were only replied by boisterous laughter for the most of them cannot speak tagalog or English.

When we settled down at the barangay hall which we will be spending the night, the neighboring house was butchering a Pig. The act is called Kanyaw in this part of the region, where they offer a livestock to commemorate or remember a special event or an ancestor. I’ve been lucky to witness several Kanyaws when I was here, and I was glad my friends were also able to witness this part of their culture. So when dinner time came we were able to feast on what they call WatWat, Meat Stew seasoned only by Salt (and nothing else, not even vegetables or onions or even pepper), that were cut into fist size proportions.  

Locals Transporting a Pig.
Photo by Ralph Mariano

After dinner, we decided to unpack our things and I showed  Maam Daisu, one of the Barrio school teachers, and the women who gathered there, the shoes, drifit shirts, and badminton rackets that my friend Andie got from her Badminton Club. She looked at me as if I just gave her a brand new car. Maam Daisu is one of my favorite people there. She was the one who told me endless stories about the students and their enthusiasm to sports, especially badminton. I remember one story on how a group of her students decided to descend to Sitio Polis (7 hours Away on Foot) just to attend a boyscout seminar. They didn’t ask permission to their parents for the fear that they won’t let them go. Upon hearing the news, Maam Daisu asked his eldest son to go after the kids to act as a guardian for the 2-day seminar. She even doled their own money so that those kids would have food for they only brought with them a little rice. She also took the liberty of explaining to the parents the situations so that these kids won’t get too much reprimand when they went home. The thirst of these kids who rarely or never get out of their community, to experience these kind of events, and the dedication of teachers like maam Daisu really struck something in me. That's when I decided that I will come back here before the enrolment starts and help in my little own way. So here I am, two months later, exhaustion slowly draining my body. But it all washed away when I saw Kuya Johnny, his parents, my little brother Blair, the rest of the kids, Maam Daisu, the kagawads, kapitan and the beauty of Badeo.

And the exhaustion and the fever I thought was surely coming, never dared to bother me again. So instead of sleeping right away, I was again mesmerized by the company of this little community, laughing and drinking, like distant relatives sharing what’s new in our lives since the last time I was there. We ended our day by testing the theory that San Miguel Gin does not give you hangover the next morning. We tested it until 3 am.